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I came across an article on this topic (it describes where to access the 'classic' sort in the toolbar)
Hope this helps
Any plans to make this functionality better? I see this change as completely broken. Users should be able to click on a sort icon & sort the data in that column - they are not going to see the nuance of a s lightly different icon for nested sorting. It worked before, and now it's broken - that's what we are already being told by users. There are legitimate use cases for having multiple dimensions with one hidden (a unique ID for a person for example), and sorting should not always work as nested. You should be able to turn it off at the worksheet level.